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He was always in the company of legendary surfers who could not help but like and respect him.
He is one of the best-known goofy-foot surfers in the world today.
They featured over 300 surfers on the front page of their publication in over 330 issues.
Surfers line up along the bank taking turns entering the water with their boards.
Then came the champion surfers of the 60s including,,,,,,,,, and.
However, surfers can also utilize man-made waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave pools.
To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneak into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating.
Swells wrapping around these points might result in long peeling waves with offshore winds that surfers prefer.
中文繁体
衝浪者, 飆網者…
More中文简体
冲浪者, 网上冲浪者…
MoreEspañol
surfista, surfero/ra [masculine-feminine, singular]…
MorePortuguês
surfista…
More日本語
サーファー, サーフィンをする人…
MoreFrançais
surfeur/-euse [masculine-feminine], surfeur/-euse…
MoreCatalan
surfista…
Moreالعربية
راكِب الأمواج…
MoreManaging Your Emotions
What makes me angry?
Hva gjør meg sint?
Mostly，l hate when someone tries to make someone else feel bad.
Jeg hater når noen prøver å få andre til å føle seg dårlige.
I have to admit that once, when l was actually called names.
Jeg må innrømme at en gang, da jeg faktisk ble kalt skjellsord.
l regretted doing this afterwards, but not full heartedly because l think l was provoked in that situation.
Jeg angret på at jeg gjorde dette etterpå, men ikke helhjertet, for jeg tror jeg ble provosert i den situasjonen.
The most postive way of dealing with anger is talking about the problem.
Den mest positive måten å håndtere sinne på er å snakke om problemet.
l talk to someone who listens, or l'll write my thoughts down on paper.
Jeg snakker med noen som lytter, eller jeg skriver tankene mine ned på papir.
Learning how to deal with anger as you're growing up is so important.
Det er så viktig å lære seg å håndtere sinne når man vokser opp.
When you're younger, you might yell,or cry when you're angry, but as you get older, you're expected to handle your emotions much better.
Når du er yngre, kan du skrike eller gråte når du er sint, men etter hvert som du blir eldre, forventes det at du forventes det at du håndterer følelsene dine mye bedre.
Learning to control your emotion now will prevent you from doing something that you'll regret later on in life!
Hvis du lærer deg å kontrollere følelsene dine nå, unngår du å gjøre noe du vil angre på angrer på senere i livet!
